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Yeast

Rjezowski75

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What would be a great yeast to use for A very hoppy IPA?  I want a very hoppy front note and a noticeable malty finish.
 
California ale yeast. Liquid = wlp001,dry = safeale us05.

Hands down.
 
Thanks Tom: I'm brewing an IPA. I want to make it really hoppy on the front note and a bit malty on the back end. Light medium to medium mouthfeel. OG of about 1.060
 
i agree.

safale 05 is the only dry yeast i use for APA and IPA.

now 'slappacks' is a different matter....
 
I've been playing around with wyeast's pacman yeast. I agree with Tom and Maine but I also think that this would be a great one to use.
 
This is what I am doing at this time. Its my first at all grain brew and would like to know if I am in trouble with the ferment. Used the White Labs Cal Ale WLP001. Pitched it 1 April and nothing is going on yet. SG 1.080 to start. O2 added before pitch. Never had one that took as long to start. Do not know a thing about starters or how to make one. Brewed about 6 times from liquid extracts without any problems. :-\
 
steaman64 said:
This is what I am doing at this time. Its my first at all grain brew and would like to know if I am in trouble with the ferment. Used the White Labs Cal Ale WLP001. Pitched it 1 April and nothing is going on yet. SG 1.080 to start. O2 added before pitch. Never had one that took as long to start. Do not know a thing about starters or how to make one. Brewed about 6 times from liquid extracts without any problems. :-\

Something is probably going on by now.  Airlock activity is not an indicator of fermentation.  One of my buckets hardly bubbles at all, but ferments just fine.  There's a slight leak somewhere along the seal, but it makes no difference.  Check your gravity.

Learning about starters is very worthwhile.  They are quite easy and require no extra special equipment.  Basically use a liter of water and 100g light or extra light dry extract, boil, cool, add yeast, let grow (covered lightly with foil, usual sanitization caveats), shake often.  Once the yeast grows for a day, cold crash in the fridge overnight, decant the liquid on top, have lots of healthy yeast. 

The standard smack packs and WLP vials only have 100 billion cells, and typically for five gallons you need 200+, so by not doing a starter you are under-pitching your yeast.  I do a starter on all liquid yeast.  Starters are easy and make for better beer.

Do not make starters for dry yeast.  Simply rehydrate it.  Dry yeast usually has 200 billion cells (assuming optimum freshness, of course).
 
Thanks for the help . U Are most likely right about the leak. That is what I was starting to assume cause this is a new pail which I had to use.  :) :) Still trying 2 get use 2 this way of comunicating.
 
i find that my carboy caps all seem to have leaks. no matter what i do i never get airlock activity from my carboys (caveat: i have only used 2 caps but both were bought new less than 4 months ago).

for yeast, since i am currently an extract brewer (going partial mash soon) and don't have the room to go AG i mostly buy locally made kits. all the local kits come with dry yeast bu i am fond of buying a good liquid yeast slap pack and pitching BOTH after aerating. this way i get a (slight) complexity bump from fermentation as well as always getting good activity really fast. i know this is lazy and a tad ghetto but i don't have to worry about buying more equipment to properly make a starter nor do i have to make a batch a 2 days in a row commitment.
 
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