• Welcome to the new forum! We upgraded our forum software with a host of new boards, capabilities and features. It is also more secure.
    Jump in and join the conversation! You can learn more about the upgrade and new features here.

Imperial stout

Russell

Brewer
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
33
Reaction score
1
  What water profile would you use for an Imperial Stout? Would you use the Burton on Trent UK? Calcium levals seem pretty high with the Burton on trent, not sure if this will work.  the ABV should be 8, OG=1.082, IBU=70, SRM=5.9
    The Beer is called Evil Twin Christmas beer. Also know for Christmas Eve At A New York City Hotel Room | Evil Twin Brewing. Found the recipe in "make Some Beer" book
 
I personally don't use city-based water profiles when brewing. I am fortunate to have very soft water so I can add things to get to the results I want for the beer I am brewing. I looked at the Burton on Trent profile and was astonished to see how high the calcium and sulfate are. I would not choose a sulfate-to-chloride ratio of 29 for any beer, not even an IPA. I would also never use a sulfate or calcium concentration that high in anything. The magnesium concentration is also out of range.

Why not use a "Black Full" profile for a stout? I use something very similar to that for mine. It has the right sulfate-chloride ratio with modest to low levels of minerals.

--GF
 
I agree with GigaFemto about matching water profiles.  If you did want to pursue a city water profile, the Burton water profile is definitely not the way to go on this one.

My approach is to set up a water profile based upon the FLAVORS I want to accent.  High Chloride for malty styles, high Sulfate for hoppy and/or dry styles, and balanced for styles in between.  From there, I add other water salts to further improve the impact of the malts being used.  I add bicarbonates to water for stouts and styles which contain a high amount of dark roasted malts because higher Bicarbonate levels seem to go well with those styles of beer (in addition to counteracting the higher acidity of those malts). 

Of course, without knowing what your base water profile is, it is difficult to make specific recommendations on where to go with it.

 
Good advice above.  As an alternative, BS3 does include a Stout profile which doesn't look too bad.
 
thanks everyone, will be looking at something better for the brew.
 
If you are going "all into the pool" approach for your mash, then the stout profile would be a good place to start.

Here is the problem that I have with blindly following the stock profiles:

Those profiles are based upon the anticipation of needing some alkali contribution from the water salts to counterbalance the high acidity of the roasted malts (specifically in the case of the stout profile).  What it does not take into account and is rarely discussed is that these profiles require all the roasted malts to be used in the mash in order for it to be effective in producing a suitable mash pH.  If you cap your roasted malts, or cold steep and add them after the mash, then using these profiles will throw off your mash pH significantly.  This is one of the issues I have with the "use this profile for beer colors of X to Y SRM" approach. 

There are three reasons to use water salts in significant amounts.  The first is to influence how the flavors express themselves in the ending beer.  I've mentioned in a post above how the effect of high Sulfates, Chloride, and Carbonates changes how you perceive flavors.  Sodium is another ion which will help with enhancing flavors, but you can get too carried away with it and end up with a 'salty' flavor to your beer which wll detract from the overall taste.

The second is for yeast health and beer clarity.  The yeast utilize Calcium and Magnesium in their consumption of sugars and turning them into energy and alcohol.  They also use the Calcium for aid in flocculation and falling out of solution once the food source becomes scarce.  Many sources indicate that they will get enough of these minerals from the malt to properly do their job in converting sugar into alcohol, but a minimum quantity in the water source helps to promote good flocculation and settling.

The third is almost a byproduct of the first two above, which is to help in attaining a suitable pH for enzyme conversion during the mash process.  This should steer the types of salts you use to supply the minerals and not necessarily the quantity of the different salts.  For instance, for most of us with very soft water, using Calcium chloride, Calcium sulfate, or Magnesium sulfate helps in lowering the pH.  Sodium bicarbonate, Calcium carbonate, Magnesium carbonate, Calcium and Magnesium hydroxide will all raise the pH.

Use of any of these should be combined with your specific process to give you the results you want.  Although it may not be ideal for dissolution, adding some salts at the beginning of the boil will do just as much for flavor if adding them to the mash water will upset the pH of your mash.

 
Didn't even think about capping with dark grains because I don't do it. Guess I should think more before typing:)
 
Back
Top