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Mash Profile for Blichmann BrewEasy

pegasusherd

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Which is the correct BeerSmith mash profile to use for Blichmann BrewEasy?  The BeerSmith equipment profile for BrewEasy seems to default to single infusion... Just wanted to confirm I'm not supposed to be using "temperature mash" or "BIAB" profiles... Thank you!
 
So after thinking on this, I still torn between Temp Mash & BIAB profiles. BIAB makes the assumption that I'm mashing with the full water volume, which I am, but all of the water is not in the mash tun at the same time. At a minimum, the strike temperature calculation will be incorrect. I figure maybe starting with the BIAB profile, perhaps with some adjustments, is the way to go?

Appreciate any insight from anyone who has used BeerSmith + BrewEasy. Thanks!
 
I've been struggling a bit with this too. I think BIAB is most correct (no sparge), but Beersmith always tells me my mash tun can't hold all the water. So, I wonder what else is not accounted for correctly. As far as dough-in, I heat all the water, then pump as much into the mash tun as practical, shut down the pump and heater and close the mt drain valve, then add my grains, get the pot levels right, then adjust my temperature.

In the end, I'm not worried too much about this. Beersmith is a tool. I use it for many things, but I'm still the brewer. So, RDWHAHB.
 
I have been working with the 30 gallon blichman G-2 kettles now for over a year and love them.  Here are hte major issues I see as well as some of the workarounds I do.

1- On the two kettle stack system, you have to fly sparge with the full batch water, this is not good because recirculating the wort is not really cleaning the grain as a fly sparge is meant to do.  My work around now is using a RIM's Heater system so I can recirculate the mash and hold within 1/2 deg. f. any temperature along the way.  When I sparge, I drain the wort into a secondary vessel, then fly sparge with the clean HLT water and recirculate that into the boil kettle.  After that is completed about 20 minutes for a 10 gal. batch, I add back the wort to the sparge water.  I have increased my efficiency by 7% and now am up to 89% efficiency on the grain.

2- the system should hold all the water necessary depending on the size batch you are doing.  For instance I brew 10 gal. at a time in my 30 gal. system  I usually need 13.75 gal of water total, 9 of which I am usually using in the mash in, then the remaining for the sparging as I described above.  I just dont like the recirculating the wort into your remaining batch water to sparge.  I also believe as I have seen over the years, that fly sparging is great for any beer and really initiates the clearing of the wort and washing of the grains.

3- I never have once used the little rubber flow stoppers before getting my RIM's system, I just dial the knob until I get a steady flow into the bottom boil kettle, then adjust the return on the pump valve to match it.

I am very proficient with this sytem if you want any help feel free to email me and I will send you my number.

Good luck, hope this helps.
 
I talked with John Blichmann about this (in fact I'm thinking of getting an electric BrewEasy myself) and he says he uses the BIAB mash profile in BeerSmith along with the equipment profile he has posted as an add-on under File->Addons->Add.

Basically if you use the BIAB mash profile it will give you the total water you need for the brew session.  Just add that to the BrewEasy with about 2/3 in the mash kettle and the other 1/3 in the boil kettle.  If you are using the electric version it is obviously important to cover the electric coil.  Get it recirculating with just the water until you hit your infusion temp needed for the mash in, then mix in the grains and adjust the float to provide an inch or more of wort above the grain bed (i.e. you don't want the grain bed to run dry or it can get stuck).  Then let it run.  I believe that he also recommends raking the top third of the grain bed every 10-15 min to reduce hot spots.

Since you'll have all of the water needed to hit your pre-boil volume, you don't add any water after this point.  After the mash is complete, just turn off the pump and let the wort drain into the boiler.  Once its completely drained you should be very close to your target pre-boill volume to start the boil.

Brad
 
Beersmith.... Where might one find the post by John Blichmann that you reference to be at:  "posted as an add-on under File->Addons->Add"

Thanks
 
Within BeerSmith: on the tool bar select Add-ons, or from the menu select File->Add-ons... That brings up a window that lists all of your currently-installed add-ons. Click on Add and you will get a list of available add-ons in alpahbetical order. I see 3 Blichmann equipment profiles there.

--GF
 
When I go to add-ons I also see 3 Breweasy, I select and click and it goes to install add-on and there is no Breweasy. I'm confused. I've used this feature many times for adding ingredients. I emailed support last week but haven't heard back. Anyone know what could be wrong?
 
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