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All Grain/Advanced / Re: Double Mash in BeerSmith3
« Last post by bobo1898 on Today at 10:27:09 PM »
The first mash is boiled for 4 hours before mixing it with the first runnings of the second Mash to create the wort for the main boil.

Mash is BOILED?! I clicked on your link but it wouldn't let me view the recipe. Are you sure it said boiled? That doesn't sound like a mash to me. Decoction would have some boiling to it, but it sounds like you described boiling the whole mash.

Regardless, I have done a double mash, or reiterated mash, before. My mash tun isn't large enough for a big beer. As far as I recall, Beersmith didn't have a profile for it so I had to Macgyver it. My design tab had my total grain bill (which was split evenly between mashes). I entered my mash time as the total time between the two mashes. So Mash 1 was 60 minutes and the Mash 2 was 90 minutes. So my profile said mash time @ 150 minutes. When I swapped out the grain in the mash, I paused the timer. I always use the notes tab as a log for every time I brew a recipe and I try to keep detailed notes. So this is where I kept things in order.

My system is pretty consistent so I wasn't super concerned with numbers, even though this method wasn't going to be true to my normal process. Ultimately I missed my target OG by 5 points. I brewed an Imperial Stout but didn't separate my pale and dark malts---I'd be curious how effective this would be. This was my process:

Mash 1 @ x temp for 60 minutes, with a lower than usual water ratio. After 60 minutes, drain the mash (I batch sparge) into the boil kettle and set aside. Sparge Mash 1 and drain into another kettle. Use Mash 1's sparge runnings as the strike water for Mash 2.

Mash 2 @ y (or x) temp for 90 minutes. Drain Mash 2 into boil kettle with first runnings of Mash 1. Sparge Mash 2 and drain into boil kettle. Go.

Keep in mind, I took gravity readings for each running so I had an idea of where my OG would be in case I wanted to add sugar during the boil. I didn't have to in my case. But I did end up with more boil volume than I would have liked. I just made note of it so next time I can adjust the volume of water I'm using.

So ultimately, BS3 didn't have an option for this. So I had to manage it myself.
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All Grain/Advanced / Bottling Two Sours---Different Paths
« Last post by bobo1898 on Today at 09:55:00 PM »
I have two sours that are ready to be bottled. Both different stories. Need some advice.

WILD LAMBIC
This beer has been in a carboy for a year (June 2018). It's FG is 1.000. I'm going to bottle half of it this week (other half will go on fruit). I plan on bottling with champagne yeast and will house it in champagne and belgian bottles. Is there anything I need to be concerned about when using champagne yeast? Is the procedure generally the same?

SOUR KOLSCH
This beer wasn't intended to be a sour. Brewed in November 2018, and racked into a used barrel a week later to age. It sat there until February but went south to where it started to take on some vinegar characteristics. From what I've gathered, this is potentially due to oxygen exposure. The pH was 3.5 at that time, so I racked it out of the barrel and onto some wild cherries, with which it still resides (4 months total with cherries). I have no idea what bugs are inside it, but with it on the cherries, there isn't any visible signs of infection. I've been thinking about bottling it. Probably going to bottle condition it for another six months or more. Should I pitch yeast at bottling time? Or assume that whatever bugs in the beer will carbonate it with my added sugar? I may be low on heavy duty bottles so I'm hesitant to use standards.
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Introductions / I'm back again!
« Last post by unionrdr on Today at 12:55:52 PM »
I've been away for quite some time doing other things. But I'm back to see what's up in the community.
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Your comments give more clarity.  You have changed your process by now draining more wort from your boil kettle which alters the brew house efficiency (BHE). 

The way BeerSmith calculates BHE is by comparing the percentage of sugars which make it to the fermenter as compared to the potential amount of sugar available in the fermentables bill you provide.

What I see in looking at your sessions tab is that you hit your gravity target from the mash, but ended up with a greater volume than anticipated by about 3.6 liters.  This gave you a higher mash efficiency since you now recovered more sugar from the grains than was calculated from your equipment profile.

Next, you ended up with 21.5 liters in your carboy, but with a lower gravity than target.  This added volume compensated for the lower gravity to give the same amount of sugar as your equipment profile predicted.  Thus the same brew house efficiency.

Now, from your figures you should have the same amount of sugar points pre-boil as post boil.  If I look at the figures, you have 29 l * 54 gravity points =  1566 sugar points.  Post boil you have [21.5 l + 2 l (trub)] * 60 gravity points = 1410 sugar points.  This deficit in sugar post boil from the pre-boil amount indicates that there is a measurement which is not correct.  Either your post boil gravity measurement is off, you have more loss to trub than you counted on, or your pre boil volume measurement is off.  You need to track this down before you make a change to your equipment profile.

If you back calculate your pre-boil volume from the ending sugar points, you get a pre boil measured volume of 26.1 L which is closer to your target value.

You will also need to address your boil off rate, since it is most likely set too high.  If you started with 29 L and boiled down to 23.5 L, your boil off rate would have been 5.5 lph instead of the 3.5 lph in your equipment profile.  If instead you actually yielded 26.1 L post boil, your boil off rate would have been 2.6 lph which is below the value in your equipment profile.

My recommendation would be to keep your profile where you had it for another brew.  Make careful measurements and compare the values to see how much error there may be in your measurements.  If you are relying on pre-stamped volumes in your boil kettle or mash tun for measuring starting water or wort, check those volumes against a measured amount of water added.  I have seen pre-stamped volumes be off by as much as 0.6 liters due to variables in manufacturing or poor alignment of the engraving device.
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OK, I've attached the .bsmx file.

The measured batch size was greater than estimated as I usually lose 1.8L to the dead space in the boil kettle but I drained 1.5 litres of this as a bit of an experiment into kettle trub.
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Introductions / Re: Greetings from Savannah, GA
« Last post by dtapke on Yesterday at 01:00:34 PM »
Interesting. I often find running yeast in an ambient temp of 68-72 can give me fermentation temps well above 80. I also occasionally use lager yeasts and others that provide better flavors more in the 65 range (or below with lagers).
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Suggestions / Re: Update equipment profile in recipes automatically
« Last post by dtapke on Yesterday at 12:58:39 PM »
as for the latter issue, I always make a "copy" of a recipe when i brew it, from that copy i would just re-select my equipment profile to fix that issue.
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Screenshots aren't terribly helpful. Without knowing some of your recipe parameters and being there for the process its quite hard to determine what the issue is. My assumption is that you're mash temperatures are likely not "right"

If the recipe design has you mash at say 68(154.4), and you mash at 67(152.6), you'll see a difference in the attenuation of the beer, thus resulting in a difference of your FG.

note the differences are less or more at different temp ranges... 60-67 will get you about the same attenuation. (within a few percentage points) but once you start dropping off below 60 or above 67 it gets pretty drastic.
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Yes, you can adjust the actual response of mash temperature to fermentability under 'options' > 'advanced'.  You have the choice of changing the response of the FG to temperature or adjusting the center point if you find the response is fine, but consistently offset from the predicted across the whole temperature range.

I would first recommend that you make sure your thermometer(s) are calibrated to freezing water (ice bath) and boiling temperatures (adjusted for altitude) before making the change.

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see the screen shot.


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