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Brewing Discussion / Re: fermenting
« Last post by flars on Yesterday at 02:14:41 PM »
How long do you plan to age the beer?  Over four weeks would not be a good idea in a bucket.  Plastics do have some air permeability which would lead to slow oxidation.  It would be possible to trickle CO2 into the bucket but would be cost prohibitive.  Unless the bucket has an unusually good seal which would allow pressurization the CO2 would still mix with atmospheric gases as the CO2 leaks out and air leaks in.

You can bulk age in a glass carboy filled to the neck to eliminate almost all air.   Best would be a keg which can be purged with CO2 and sealed.   The easiest and lowest cost method would be to age in bottles.
Brewing Discussion / fermenting
« Last post by sam31 on Yesterday at 01:13:42 PM »
I have a question about ageing
After my beer has stopped fermenting do I need to put c02 in it or can I leave it the fermenting bucket to age it.
All Grain/Advanced / Re: Water Report Doesn't Fit Beersmith
« Last post by jonesee on Yesterday at 05:33:36 AM »
Hello and Greetings,

I also have very soft water in North Wales, Calcium levels of approx 27ppm. Not sure what u mean about the mean this your Raw Liquor? If so, ignore water pH it has no bearing on mash pH or any other pH in the brewing process. I add a small quantity of DWB to the dry Malt prior to the mash, this is a formulated blend of minerals. The calcium ions are what aid the phosphates in the mash to alter the pH. By adding the correct amount of calcium the mash will be buffered enough to lower the pH down to the recommended mash range of 5.1 to 5.3. I measured my mash pH and it was spot on at 5.2. Mash pH is an important part of the brewing process.....well in my view  ;)

For Bitters, IPA's, and Pale Ales, the main ions and the approx target range of Theoretical Wort Values Pre Fermentation are: Nitrate (0 - 50 ppm), Calcium (180 - 220), Magnesium ( 0 - 50), Chloride (150 - 250), Sulphate (250 - 450) and Alkalinity as CaCO3 (20 - 60). With my very soft water the Alkalinity as CaCO3 is about 8ppm a lot lower than the target but it wont affect the beer that is made, I could add Na2CO3 to bring this up to target range but the quantities would be very small and not worth it.

What I have done is sent a sample of my water for analysis and (see the excellent BrewUK website and Water Analysis) it costs about ?29 and I had results back for all types of beers in addition to what I have mentioned above: Stouts/porters/Milds and Lagers/Pilsners. I think its well worth it.

I am not sure how effective the water profile is in BeerSmith. What I did is take the Burton type of water profile that is listed in Beer smith and used this a template for my water. But I still don't know if it matters in the grand scheme of things in BeerSmith...

Hope I haven't confused you... ;D


All Grain/Advanced / Re: Carbonation with maple syrup
« Last post by jonesee on Yesterday at 04:28:38 AM »
Hello Robert,

I am not an expert but found this:......seems a lot of syrup?

Maple sap typically contains about 2% sucrose. Maple syrup is standardized at a minimum of 66? Brix, and is typically 95% sucrose or more. Grade B syrup can contain 6% invert sugar, while Grade A Light Amber will contain less than 1%. You will get more maple flavor from the Grade B syrup. The characteristic maple flavors tend to be lost during primary fermentation, so adding the syrup after primary fermentation is over is recommended to retain as much flavor as possible. This practice will also help the beer to ferment more completely because it will not trigger the maltose inhibition discussed earlier. For a noticeable maple flavor, 1 gallon (3.8 L) of Grade B syrup is recommended per 5-gallon (19-L) batch of beer.
All Grain/Advanced / Beer Settling post fermentaion
« Last post by jonesee on Yesterday at 04:09:16 AM »
Hi Guys...

I've completed a Timothy Taylor Landlord (British Brew) about a week ago. The FG was 1.011..started cooling to as low as poss in my brew fridge on am of 24th April. Temp bottomed out at 1.4C - 1.5C and has been at this temp for about 4 days. Total 6 days chilling from completion of fermentation to today. I took a sample from the bottom of my FV today and its still a bit cloudy. I haven't added any finings (didn't think I had to as I was cooling to quite low temps...lesson learnt I guess?) how long should I wait until I keg off, how long have u left beers to settle? I am intending to keg the beer into "corny" kegs.

Suggestions / Re: PH mash Adjust with Citric Acid
« Last post by gianry on April 28, 2017, 06:31:31 AM »
thanks for the suggestion; I 'd like to see that option in the Beersmith software
Suggestions / Re: PH mash Adjust with Citric Acid
« Last post by BOB357 on April 28, 2017, 05:23:58 AM »
Yes, it is possible. Bru'n Water gives you that option under water additions.
BeerSmith 2 Bugs/Support / I cannot login to Beersmith cloud
« Last post by Goldenturtle on April 28, 2017, 12:28:07 AM »
I cannot login to Beersmith cloud to see my recipes. I get a login failed message.

I can login to the recipe cloud and see my recipe whit Crome.
Suggestions / Re: Summary of Hops in recipe
« Last post by BrewDorg on April 27, 2017, 09:57:25 AM »
Cool, thanks for the tip guys, that's useful.
Brewing Discussion / Dry wheat yeast recommendations
« Last post by Flash11 on April 27, 2017, 06:28:09 AM »
Hi all,
I'm new to the the world of forums. This is my first ever post. Like a lot of new home brewers the internet has been a very handy tool. I've been doing a fair bit of research lately in regards to dry yeasts.
Over the last year or so I've used a few liquid yeasts. Only White Labs though (they're the only liquid yeast my local home brew shop stocks) I'm a big fan of wheat beers and had good results with the WLP 300 strain. But they are relatively expensive and I was wondering if anyone could recommend a dry yeast that could produce similar results to WLP 300(banana phenols). I know that temperature plays a big part but the only dry yeast I've used for wheat beers is WB06 and I really don't like the flavour it imparts at all.
I've read various reports on Mangrove Jacks M20 dry yeast,mostly good. I wonder if anyone has had success with that yeast strain? Or if there another out there anyone would recommend for flavours tending more towards the banana end of the scale?
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