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This happened to me the first time I kegged an IPA.  I use swivel nuts on my connectors, so I switched the gas line onto the liquid connector and hit it with a short burst of CO2.  Cleared theline and let the leg settle for a few days before drawing another pint.

If you are set on bottling, the best way would be through the beer line so you are facing the same issue. 

You can siphon the beer out into a bottling bucket, add some priming sugar and bottle from there, but you will be exposing the beer to Oxygen and shorten the shelf life.
Brewing Discussion / Can you siphon carbonated beer from keg to bottle?
« Last post by kw642 on Today at 03:53:27 PM »
I racked 5 gallons of NEIPA to a keg, but now I can't get it to come out of the tap.  I kinda saw this coming as it did turn out very chunky with all the dry hopping etc. - the beer line was jammed before I could even get enough to fill a shooter glass.  Haven't been able to clear the line yet, and even if I do it's going to happen again on the next pour.  I'm new to kegging so forgive me if there's an obvious answer here, but what's the best way to proceed?  It's not going to go through anything less than 3/8" in diameter.  Can you siphon force carbonated beer into bottles without losing adequate carbonation?  Should I let it go flat and bottle condition it?

BeerSmith Mobile - Lite and Full / Unable to see Notes in Mobile
« Last post by Lennyu on Yesterday at 08:27:36 PM »
Using Mobile v3.0.10 on my iPad the Notes section is covered with the keyboard and you are unable to what you are typing. It is completely covered in landscape and portrait if it is empty and partially obstructed in portrait if there is existing text. Not sure if this has been reported yet.
Brewing Discussion / Re: Brut IPA
« Last post by dtapke on Yesterday at 11:56:49 AM »
hit .995 a few days ago and has stalled out there. Originally went for 1.056 gravity thinking "oh this will be a nice 5-6% beer" not even thinking about the fact that i'm planning a 100%+ attenuation...

All Grain/Advanced / Re: Liquid/Drops for Ph testing
« Last post by dtapke on Yesterday at 11:34:53 AM »
personally i use and recommend this

for maintenance i use this

I keep a small amount of each calibration fluid, and storage fluid in a mason jar with a sealed lid.

hanna also offers many cheaper options for meters, from around $40 on up. I'll also warn you, I've seen many of their meters on homebrew supply store sites for 2X or more the price that they offer it directly. Hanna makes great quality testing devices and offers excellent support.

I would recommend getting a meter with a replaceable electrode though. just in case :) the first one i linked has replaceable electrodes and its waterproof ;)
BeerSmith 3 Support / Re: How can I improve this?
« Last post by kw642 on Yesterday at 10:49:39 AM »
Correct, I only have the three piece ones, but I'm going to try both of your suggestions.  I've already switched out the airlock on this batch 3 times this morning.  Keeps filling up with beer!
All Grain/Advanced / Re: Liquid/Drops for Ph testing
« Last post by Oginme on Yesterday at 10:25:57 AM »
A colorimetric test for pH is good when you have clear water to work with.  Once you add color bodies into the solution (like as in wort), the determination of end color becomes much more subjective.  pH strips are based upon this same indicator chemistry and given the low amount of liquid absorbed and the white reflective background are much more reliable.  Many brewers use test strips without issue.

pH meters are really not that difficult to work with and maintain.  Some basic understanding of how they work will help with the upkeep and protection of the meter.  Cheap pH meters can be had for around $10 to $20 from Amazon, but are not really reliable long term instruments.  I went through several over the years and as long as you view them as throw away items, they are not bad.  You do need to be wary of the accuracy of the readings as the number of digits they display does not always correlate with the accuracy they claim. 

Step up a bit and with some minor storage and maintenance and you have a more reliable set of pH meters to choose from.  I've worked with pH meters from $30 and up to several thousand dollars in my career and most do a suitable job as long as they are maintained.  Any pH meter, no matter the price, will not function if not cared for.
All Grain/Advanced / Liquid/Drops for Ph testing
« Last post by GonzoGonzolas on Yesterday at 10:03:15 AM »
Curious on your opinion here:
After lots of research, PH meters sound like they are very difficult and expensive to use/maintain/store for a hobby brewer.  And test strips appear to be widely opinioned as not accurate to be useful.  But what about liquid-based tests (such as pool kits and/or other ?liquid drop? tests for hydroponics).

I can?t believe I can?t find a thread on a homebrew forum about using liquid-based/drop methods of PH measurement for Homebrewing.  They seem to address all the problems of meters  (cost, accuracy, storage) for the intermittent user.

Specifically, something like link below seems like it would be quite useful to start to get an idea about your mashing PH?perhaps even nudging it to the desired PH.

Am I missing something here?  Why isn?t everyone using liquid-drop based PH testing?

PS: there's probably some impact from temp when you try to sample your 155F mash....but I think the sample size is so small that chilled test drops may even mitigate this somewhat.  Sort of like putting "hot" drops on your refractometer; they cool almost immediately.)
BeerSmith 3 Support / Re: How can I improve this?
« Last post by dtapke on Yesterday at 08:34:10 AM »
Also, I'll add that I assume you're using a three piece airlock and not an S type airlock.

Check to make sure the bottom doesn't have any plastic blocking it up. sometimes there's kind of a little X or + across the hole. I always cut those out. At that point you can take the plastic cap off, take the dome off, then affix a piece of silicon or vinyl tubing to the tube that the dome shaped piece covers, submerge that in a bucket or something of sanitizer and now you've got something that's far less likely to clog.

Another option is to get a second bucket lid, and cut a 1" hole in it. get some 1" OD tubing and then just always use that bucket for your primary fermentation. I honestly see no reason to use those tiny little annoying airlocks lol! Everything i own now has 1" blow off tubing and i use these: to seal them up.
Brewing Discussion / Re: Final gravity
« Last post by Oginme on Yesterday at 08:06:29 AM »
I used to be a slave to style guidelines but the more I learn about beer and beer history the more I discover the guidelines are rubbish. There is so much misinformation in the descriptions of some beers that clearly do not match the factual, historic record that it destroys all confidence in the whole process. If you are planning to enter the world of competition then by all means you will have to follow the guidelines or you will never succeed. Otherwise use your own senses. If you like London porter, drink as many examples as you can. Learn about them and then make something similar that makes you happy.

I would phrase it slightly different.  The style guidelines are there for judges and competitions.  They in no way describe historical styles, but reflect modern commercial examples of those styles.  Even then, many commercial breweries have their own take on a style and do not apply strict adherence to a given style.

For homebrewers, they provide a basic outline of what it takes to produce a beer that matches a given style.  They are not prescriptive, but informational.  I enjoy matching some styles to hone my brewing skills or because I really like that style the way it is described and brewed.  Others, I take in the direction I want for the flavors, aromas, and sensory experience that I want.
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