This week we examine the topic of troubleshooting homebrewed beer. Despite the best laid plans of mice and men, not every beer you brew is going to be a homerun. Homebrewing beer is a combination of both art and science, and sometimes the art or science goes wrong.
Fortunately all is not lost, for each bad batch is an opportunity to learn how to diagnose and improve your next batch. Assuming you’ve already taken the time to carefully design your beer and match the target style, the next thing to examine is the taste of your beer. Beer troubles each have their own unique signature which you can evaluate using the guide below.
Bitterness
Excess bitterness in your beer is usually perceived on the back of the tongue, and often manifests itself as a bitter aftertaste. If bitterness is too low the beer often will have a very malty, sweet or grainy profile. Some beers such as IPAs require high bitterness, while others such as Scotch and many German ales require a malty profile.
Excess bitterness is created by overuse of boiling/bitterness hops, long boil times, the use of black or roasted malts, and the use of alkaline water or water with excess sulfates. Conversely low bitterness can result from a low bitterness to gravity ratio, too little hops, malty grains such as Vienna and Munich malts, short boil time or high fermentation temperatures. Filtration can also reduce the bitterness of your beer in many cases.
Body
Body is often referred to as mouth-feel or the thickness of the beer. Full bodied beers have a well rounded thick feel to them while light bodied beers have a thin profile.
I recently wrote a complete article on how to enhance the body of your beer. Some techniques include adding caramel, crystal or carafoam malts, lactose, malto-dextrin, adding more malt overall, adding wheat, increasing the mash temperature of your beer and fermenting at a lower temperature. Conversely thin beers can be created by reducing additives, adding rice or sugar, decreasing mash temperature and fermenting at higher temperatures.
Diaceytl Flavors
Diaceytl flavor comes through as a buttery or butterscotch flavor. It is most often caused by incomplete fermentation. Potential causes include an old or undersized yeast starter, lack of oxygen in the wort before fermentation, lack of yeast nutrients, bacterial contamination or use of excessive adjuncts such as corn or rice that lack proper nutrients. Finally, if you prematurely halt fermentation by suddenly raising or lowering temperature, adding finings too soon or choosing a yeast with very high flocculation you can get a distinct butterscotch flavor in your beer.
You can counteract diceytl by starting with an appropriately sized yeast starter, making sure your wort is properly oxygenated before fermentation, avoiding contamination and making sure a majority of your grain bill contains fresh barley malt. Barley malt naturally has the nutrients needed for proper yeast growth.
Alcoholic Profile
The alcoholic profile of a beer is most often perceived as a warm sensation in the mouth and throat. Different styles obviously require different alcohol profiles as indicated by the starting and ending gravities in the BJCP Style Guide. Ideally a beer should have a balanced profile that compliments the overall flavor.
Fusel alcohols leave a solvent like flavor in the beer and are most often produced by fermentation at excessively high temperatures. Fermenting in the recommended range for your yeast can mitigate any solvent-like fusel flavors.
Overall alcohol balance can be controlled by adjusting your original gravity to match the style of beer as well as taking proper care in fermentation to make sure the wort is properly aerated, pitched and kept within the recommended temperature range during fermentation. If there is a significant mismatch between the alcohol content and body of the beer, you can also look at adjusting the body of the beer (described above) to better balance your recipe.
Astringency
An astringent flavor comes across as grainy or a raw husky flavor. In some cases it may be dry or similar to the flavor of grape skins.
Astringency is most often caused by oversparging your grains or boiling your grains. It can also be caused by sparging with excessively hot water (over 175F), excess trub in the wort, and overmilling of your grains. You can minimize astringency by proper milling, sparging and a good rolling boil when brewing your beer.
Phenolic Flavors
Phenolic flavors are perceived as a medicinal or band-aid like flavor that can be quite harsh. It also sometimes is perceived as plastic, smokey or clovelike. Strong phenolic flavors can make the beer harsh or even undrinkable in some cases.
Phenolic flavors, like astringency, can be caused by oversparging or boiling your grains. In addition the use of chlorinated tap water or presence of bacterial contamination can also cause phenolic flavors. Excessive use of wheat malts or roasted barley malts can also lead to clovelike flavors. Check your equipment and bottle caps for leaks and potential contamination, carefully control your sparging process and use an alternate water source if needed to mitigate phenolics.
Dimethyl Sulfide (DMS)
DMS flavors and aromas come across as cabbage, rotten eggs or a sweet cornlike aroma. Excess DMS can spoil your beer.
DMS has many potential causes. These include high moisture malt (especially 6 row), bacterial contamination, oversparging at low temperature (below 160F), and underpitching your yeast. Covering your pot during the boil can also create DMS. Storing malt in a cool dry place, care when sparging and boiling, and a proper yeast starter can help to mitigate the ill effects of DMS.
Sour/Acidic Flavors
Sour and acidic flavors may be perceived as a bitter, cider-like, lemon-juice or sour candy flavors usually at the side of the tongue.
One primary cause of sourness is contamination due to inattention to proper sanitation. The use of excessive sugar, particularly refined sugars used by many beginners can also introduce a sour cider-like flavor. Other causes include the addition of excessive ascorbic acid, introduction of bacteria or contamination, excessively high fermentation temperatures and storage of the beer at very warm temperatures.
I hope this week’s beer troubleshooting guide will help you diagnose common brewing problems and their causes. Portions of this article were derived from the troubleshooting page on BrewWiki. Thanks again for visiting the BeerSmith Home Brewing Blog. Please consider subscribing for weekly delivery and keep your comments and emails coming.
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{ 19 comments… read them below or add one }
I am new to home brewing but have done two very drinkable brews so far (a porter and an amber) got a bit cocky on my thrid attempt and rushed thing burning the malt extract. I continued and had hopes that the end result would not be too bad with no luck and the batch is helping my compost pile.
Have brewed beer for almost 30 years and for the most part the brews have won appreciation. However every now and again there is created a sort of thin ‘waxy’ film onthe surface of the brew after fermentation has finished but before tapping into bottles. This occured on 3 different brews during the last 2 weeks. I am very perturbed as to what it can be – obviously some sort of bacterial attack due to a slip in hygiene most likely but it would be nice to hear from an expert so as I have peace of mind. If you can help I would be extremely grateful – Thanks, Dave, Norway
Actually the presence of a thin film is not always an indication of bacteria. Often the CO2 from the fermentation will lift some light particles/proteins in the solution and leave them at the surface of the fermented beer. If you actually do have a bacterial infection, in most cases you can immediately taste it in the beer as it will either taste sour or just plain spoiled.
Finished brewing an IPA (extract) and within 12 hours fermentation had begun. However, within another 12 hours it had virtually stopped. Any cause for alarm? Should I do anything? Thanks.
Bart – I would not worry – give it some time as it may not have completed, but some fermentations can be rapid. If you are concerned, try taking a hydrometer reading to see where the specific gravity is now. Also make sure you have a good seal with the airlock and especially the lid of the bucket if you are using a bucket to ferment – sometimes gas can escape your fermeter through the seals. — Brad
Hi!
I just brewed lager beer at home for the first time.it taste sour,colour is dirty yellow i assume it got contaminated. I dnt want to waste 40 pints so can u gimme advice how to fix the issue. Imhave already bottled the beer..
Waiting for reply
Cheers
Hi,
My best advice is if it is already bottled, give it some a week or two to carbonate, then store it in the fridge for a month or two. Likely the color will clear over time and the flavor will improve. Young beer (just brewed) is neither clear nor particularly good – so you may not have contaminated it at all.
Have some patience and crack a bottle in a few weeks to see if it is better. If it is still bad, give it a month or two to settle out – just about anything gets better with age.
Brad
I brewed my second batch of red ale yesterday and at 6:00 AM my lid blew off my ferminter. The air gap pluged up with foam. I cleaned everything but the foam keeps pouring out the hole. Is this a lost cause or is there still hope?
Evan,
Keep it going – if the fermentation is still active the beer will have a layer of CO2 over it, so even if your airlock failed it is unlikely you have spoiled the beer. I’ve had it happen a few times and it has always turned out for the best. In fact many commercial breweries still use open air fermenters.
Brad
Hi, I made my first batch of beer, tastes great, problem is, its not very carbonated?? what happened? It sat for 2 weeks before we opened the first bottle.
Hi,
There are several reasons you could have carbonation problems. The yeast could be inactive, you may not have used enough sugar, and you may not have given it enough time. Fresh ingredients are very important so I would probably start there – did you use fresh sugar to prime it?
Brad
the recipe I used said to use dry malt extract 1 1/4 cup to 1 cup boiled water for bottling. so that’s what I did. so sounds like next time I will use the sugar.
Have brewed two batches of beer. One is a lager and the other a Yorkshire bitter. Two issues the Yorkshire has an apple flavor to it after one month in the kegarator. The Lager is an all grain and has a slight smoke taste. What is wrong and how do ya fix it.
Hi,
Hard to tell but the lager could have problems due to aging at high temp – did you ferment and age it at lager temperatures (around 54F?)
Brad
Hi,
We have brewed two beers; Brown Ale and Bayer. Both beers had an OG = 35 Ö and FG = 12Ö. How do we get an increase in the OG value?
Hi,
To increase your FG, just add more grains or extract to the beer!
Brad
I have just brewed an all grain American brown and added 8 oz maple syrup in the last 20 minutes of the boil. I am wondering if I can add about 4-6 oz maple syrup for the carbonation I want in the keg? Want yo have a distinct maple essence but don’t want the beer to be dry or off flavored!
I purchased everything to brew beer over the holidays. I started with a Brewer’s best Continental Pilsner. Paid careful attention to instruction & sterilization procedures. After 48 hrs at 55 degrees there was no sign of fermentation. I went on the manufacturers website & was instructed to take a hydrometer reading being assured if the gravity was decreasing, fermentation was occurring. The readin was 1.000. Original gravity was 1.044. It is 5 days later & still nothing. I contacted a local brew supply co. & was instructed to take another reading. It was 1.050. an increase of 6/1000? I was instructed to take it out of the chiller and bring it to room temp to see if fermentation started, and, if not, maybe the yeast packet was bad & to re-pitch tomoro. Have I been given the correct information? I would hate to fail on my first attempt.
Hi,
I would look for signs of active fermentation (bubbling airlock, head on the fermenting wort, etc). Its possible you have a bad hydrometer or your procedure for measuring is not quite consistent yet.
Brad
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